'IDDA' by Gaja & Graci Bianco 2020

Gaja is one of the most famous names in Italian wine, if not the most famous. Less well known perhaps, but as highly respected and celebrated is Alberto Graci, and his Etna based winery Graci. IDDA is a collaboration between these two totemic producer to hone the stylistic qualities of Etna's native varieties and the spirit of her unique terroir. The wines are in demand, highly rated and available in tiny quantities. STSWine

This wine offers a greater level of depth and grace, and the inner complexity is also a far step above the other two releases. The main reason for this noticeable change is the increased presence of Belpasso fruit. This is one of three vineyard sites on Etna farmed by this formidable Gaja and Graci team, and it's the vineyard that shows the most promise, especially with regards to age-worthy whites. This bottle should hold up to the 10-year mark. This wine is very specific to Carricante, with tangy citrus notes and orchard fruit followed by Mediterranean shrub oak and salty marine breeze. It is tonic, sharp and "electric" This wine makes the argument that Carricante IS the vinous protagonist of Etna. 93+ POINTS, ROBERT PARKER

The 2020 includes 5ha of newly planted Carricante vines and it really makes a difference. It's as if the wine has come into sharp focus. It is vibrant, intense and precise. Aromas of cream, waxy lemon rind, smoke and struck matches are followed by lively, zingy Sicilian lemon flavours and white flowers enveloped in a gentle, creamy texture. Lively, invigorating and caressing at the same time. 93 POINTS, DECANTER