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Ochota Barrels 'The Fugazi' 2017

Ochota Barrels 'The Fugazi' 2017

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Red Wine /// Grenache // Adelaide Hills / Australia
Taras and Amber Ochota make this from 68-year-old vines growing on a rise in Blewitt Springs. It’s not what you might expect from McLaren grenache, though it is what you might expect from the winery: dynamic, crazy-delicious wine. They ferment it with 80 percent whole clusters, starting with seven days of cold maceration, then allow the fruit to warm up so it begins to ferment on its own, leaving the juice in contact with the grape skins for 80 days. Bottled after six months resting in older French barriques, the wine feels completely knit, light and fresh, with scents of green peppercorn, green olive and delicate red fruit ghosting a trail of flavor that draws you back to the glass—a kind of salty, spicy magnetism. Deanna Gonnella, a chef on staff who wrote about her recent conversion to grenache (Fall 2018), suggested serving this with lamb braised in white wine, mint, chile peppers, red onions and a late addition of steamed clams. 94 POINTS, WINE & SPIRITS MAGAZINE
An attractive fusion of roses and raspberries on the nose with freshness and purity. A hint of wild herbs, too. The palate delivers a silky, slightly round central core of strawberries and wild raspberries. Quite powerful and subtly smoky. It expands long into the finish. Delicious now, but it’ll be even better in a couple of years. 94 POINTS, JAMES SUCKLING

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