Borja Perez Atifice Tinto 2019

- 23%
  • €26,00
  • €34,00


Intense, smoked-rocks and samphire-in-rock-pool nose. Tastes like lemon chiselled out of a salt pan, like a cold mountain stream stained brown by bracken, like bleached sandy shells caught in kelp, like a white peach picked three days too early. It glitters, in the mouth. It's brine and salt spray crashing against cliffs. The Vin Cognito notes mentioned bacon fat. Tasting this cold out the fridge, I wrinkled my nose and thought, 'nonsense: too angular, too lemon, too mineral'. But then, a couple of hours later, after my glass had been sitting on the garden table warming in the sunlight, I took a sip and almost dropped the glass in shock. Yes! Lardo! Almost pork-scratching-like! Amazing, but yes, they're right. Bacon fat. Tempting as it is to drink a wine like this very cold, it became far more interesting at >14 °C. Food pairing? I'd wrap scallops in lardo, flash fry them in a pan or pop them on a searingly hot barbecue for a minute or two, squeeze a fresh lemon over them, and kick back. JANCIS ROBINSON